Nearing the Final Pitch – Devil’s Shortcut – Part 3

Nearing the Final Pitch – Devil’s Shortcut – Part 3


You see that a lot of the
hardest climbing routes, Sergio Tartari
Conqueror of the Devil’s Shortcut surpass the time limits. And also, a lot of things that
elsewhere have already been made about 30, 40 years ago,
are still difficult today. Devil’s Shortcut
Ep. 3 The climbing here in Rio
is definitely somehow different David Lama
Mountaineer than the climbing I’m used to, I mean…
It’s really warm here, it´s hot,
the air is humid. The climbing wasn’t all done in the same day,
all in free, right? From the base to the end. So we must have 11, 12 hours
of light out there Felipe Camargo
Climber to climb 8 pitches
and try to crimp. We really try to reduce
every piece of gear that is maybe not necessary. That’s the style I like to climb the most. And I think that’s the
most efficient style for this route. Right, Felipe!
I’m on belay. 3rd Pitch The third pitch is one of the prettiest
and it starts to show the technical side Alexandre Portela
Conqueror of the Devil’s Shortcut when the wall is more positive. Then the fourth one arrives,
which is that one with the little chimney, which is a little wilder and may have some hidden wasps. There were parts that you have to,
like, climb trees, climb through the jungle and there were other parts where
the climbing was really nice and technical. 5th Pitch And there’s hardly grabs,
so it’s much grip, just balancing on the feet. I arrived breathless. And you stop, breathe, well balanced, and then you move the eyes around, like… “what do I do now?” One of the most beautiful, the one
next to last, the sixth one, right? It comes out on a crossing to the left. You put some protection,
kind of mixed, bolts, mobile pieces. 7th Pitch The last pitch is kind of
a route closure. With a lot of the air factor,
you are already almost 300m high. In the end, you have enough chasm, there’s a 300m gorge on the way down. And on the last pitch
Felipe was leading the last pitch. When we got to the last pitch and it was
time to do it and get off of the wall… And then he took a fall
pretty high up. We have no head lamp, soon we won’t see anything. Last episode:
redbull.com.br/atalhododiabo #AtalhoDoDiabo

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