How A Blazer Should Fit – Men’s Clothing Fit Guide – Sport Coat Sports Jacket

How A Blazer Should Fit – Men’s Clothing Fit Guide – Sport Coat Sports Jacket


(classical music) – Hi, I’m Ashley Weston. I’m a celebrity men’s wear stylist. This video is part of my
men’s clothing fit guide. To see the other articles
and videos in this series, check out this link here or click here. So let’s talk about how
your blazer should fit. Honestly, your blazer should fit exactly like how your suit jacket fits. There should be no
difference between the two in regards to fit. But I thought it would be really fun to create this exciting new video showing you how your blazer should fit. I swear on the life of
my non-existent children that this video is nothing like the video I made regarding how your
suit jacket should fit. Do you think they’re
seriously gonna fall for this? I’m not even wearing the same outfit. I have Michael here to help demonstrate how your blazer should fit. So let’s take a look
at the blazer’s collar. Now, your collar should
lie against the back of your shirt collar, which in turn should lie against your neck. You want to make sure
there’s no significant gaps in between your blazer
collar and your shirt collar. Moving on to the shoulders,
you want to make sure that the seem hits where
your shoulder ends. There shouldn’t be any
wrinkling, which sometimes very cheaply made blazers
will wrinkle right here. And there shouldn’t be
a divot in the shoulder, which divots usually happen when the shoulders are too tight. So make sure that the shoulders aren’t too tight or too large, because it’s gonna be pretty costly and difficult for a tailor to fix. With regards to arm holes, luckily today most blazers are made
with higher arm holes. You just want to make sure though that it’s not so high that it’s
cutting in to your armpits. So Michael, how does this feel? – It feels good, not too tight. – This is how an arm hole
should look and feel. Now, a lot of the older blazers, the arm holes are cut bigger, and it actually makes you
look super broad and terrible. But usually today, you
don’t have that problem. But just be careful, you
want higher arm holes but not so high that it
cuts in to your armpits. So with your blazer sleeves,
you want to make sure it’s a nice tailored
fit throughout the arm. You don’t want it to be so tight that it’s hugging your muscles, but you also don’t want it to be so loose where you really lose
the shape of your arm. With regards to the perfect sleeve length, a great test that I
have is bend your wrist, with your palms facing down. The blazer sleeve should
end a quarter of an inch above the bend of your wrist. That way, that same amount of shirt sleeve can peek through like we have here. You want to make sure that the blazer lightly hugs your mid
section when it’s buttoned, like we have here. It shouldn’t create a nasty “X”, that’s what you don’t want. That means it’s too tight if
it creates this kind of “X”. But also, if it’s loose and there’s a lot of room in the front where you could pull the button forward, no problem, because a tailor can easily take in the sides and correct that. Let’s take a look at the back because this is the second part. You always want to make
sure a well fitting suit should hug the natural curve of your back. That’s how you can tell that a blazer fits nicely or poorly. But turning you around, Michael, your button stance, that’s
also very very important. You want to make sure that the top button hits just above your
belly button, right here. Nothing higher or lower
because it actually starts to throw off the
proportions of your body. And while you’re at it, for a two button notch lapel blazer, always always fasten the top button but never
this bottom button. The length of your blazer dictates how balanced your upper
body is to your lower body. If you’re 5’9″ and under,
you want the length of your blazer to hit mid crotch. If you’re taller, like Michael is, you want it to end around
mid to lower crotch. A tailor can always take up the length of the blazer by about an inch, but nothing more than
that because it starts to throw off the
proportions of the blazer. And a tailor can never lengthen a blazer because there’s no fabric to even let out. So that’s how your blazer should fit. I hope you enjoyed my
completely new video. To see all of my favorite blazers that you should definitely own, check this link out right
here, or click here. This video is part of my
men’s clothing fit guide. Check out my website for
a more in depth article and subscribe to my YouTube channel for more videos like this. If you like this video, send
five dollars to this address, or if you’re a cheapskate, then I guess you could just give me a thumbs up. All right, thank you so much for watching. I’ll see you in the next one. (classical music)

44 Replies to “How A Blazer Should Fit – Men’s Clothing Fit Guide – Sport Coat Sports Jacket”

  1. I have an athletic build, and I have lots of problems getting clothes that fit. My chest is 46" and my waist is 32", and my thighs are 27". Can you do a video on options for people like me? Also I have a cafe racer motorcycle, could you show how I can achieve a modern vintage style to go along my beautiful motorcycle. Thanks

  2. Ashley,

    I saw you mention you worked with Kevin Hart, so I hope you can help me. I'm 5'4", 158lb (naturally more muscular upper body, bit of a concentrated gut around midsection), probably about 34 waist 28 length. Can you give me any tips for getting a proper suit? I know shoulders are most important but that's about it. And most I've seen in my size (38S or so seems to feel best) had those low armholes. I just got myself a tailor, but am clueless on how to buy. Please help!

    Also, if you could make a how to properly measure (and base sizes off that measurement) video, I'd be eternally grateful. Thanks!

  3. Wrinkling on the shoulders is caused by wearing a jacket that's too narrow in the shoulders. it's got nothing to do with quality. And divots are cause by armholes being too high. If you look at 1950s pictures of gangsters those guys were wearing suits that were 2 sizes too big for them but none of them had divots. A higher armhole is necessary for a slim contemporary fit but if it's too small you get divots. Off the rack suit shopping is really a treasure hunt because you're looking for such a specific fit. There's things like posture of the jacket and proportion too, not just sizing. Hugo Boss jackets just don't fit me, and they are super well made. Happy Hunting.

  4. Hey Ashley! I could use some advice on a quick (if you skip the background info) question (at the bottom).

    I am a suit novice – one of those guys that didn't realize it's a huge deal how a suit fits and looks, because they are apparently not all the same – and I'm learning from recent research that I've been looking like an idiot in the one suit I own. I just spent an entire weekend driving around trying to find one that fits. 10 stores, 10 salespeople, no luck. Aside from the fact I am not sized/shaped right for suits off the rack and need a lot of tailoring, I evidently also have some messed up shoulders; every jacket I tried on had some degree of divot in them. I don't know if they are too round, too broad, too slender, or what (there's nothing visibly wrong with them, I swear. I thought they were normal), but it looks to me like the padding sticks out beyond where it's supposed to, so the fabric needs to return to my arm, if that makes sense. I tried bigger, smaller, different brands… Some are not as bad as others, but even the expensive ones I couldn't afford had small divots. I know that's the one thing a tailor can't fix, so I'm reluctant to buy one that has a divot, even though I intended to buy because I should wear one for this weekend. Most of the salespeople were unfortunately more into selling than helping, but the few that seemed to have my best interest at heart did acknowledge it was there. One guy even called his co-worker – and then their boss – to come over and see if they could figure it out. They brainstormed and found me some jackets with smaller divots, but nothing like the line I've seen in every photo, video, and illustration, and nothing like the jackets the salesmen were wearing.

    I read your website thoroughly on the topic, and even sought out that gray J. Crew Ludlow suit, but it did the same thing. I know it was only two days so it seems early to panic, but I did hit a ton of places and got a lot of professional opinions, and none of them led me to a suit that fits by the standards I've learned about. I suppose it might be possible if one was made just for me it could counteract whatever it is about my shoulders that's throwing the suits off, but I'm not the kind of person that should be buying even one custom suit, let alone however many I'm supposed to have.

    I'm really terrible at seeing things the way most other people see them, so I'm pretty useless at this. I have no idea what matters, which I guess is why the one suit I have is unwearable. Thanks for any advice!

    TL/DR:

    My shoulders are apparently unusual and every jacket I've tried on has divots. Should I just accept it and try to minimize the damage so I have a suit even if the shoulders look bad, or not even bother and go without one? Should I buy a custom suit regardless of cost because it's that important to have one and that important it looks good? Thank you!

  5. hello! one question" how should sportive jackets (i mean winter coat, spring coat, short jacket, ecc) fit in the end of sleeves? I f it is not clear let me know and I try to reformulize the question. thanks from italy

  6. Perhaps you can do one on how a sports jacket should fit. It won't be much extra work, I can send you a recording of Morgan Freeman saying, "sports jacket", he sounds super sexy cool. 🙂

  7. I wished you would have used an actual Blazer instead of a suit Jacket. The lines between the two are blurred today and it seems like no one sells an off the rack Blazer that don't look like a suit jacket or sports coat. Please help because I am looking for a Navy Blazer with Gold or Mother of Pearls button that retailers screwed up for this trendy skinny look.

  8. is it okay to have a pull when we button the top button of the blazer of a suit or a sports coat?

    because that pull gives that V which makes it even more good

  9. Thanks so much for you fit guides!
    I'd like to try certain Sport Coat/T-Shirt combinations but am unsure, what the Sport Coat's propper sleeve length would be then, since no shirt sleeve will be showing, obviously. Should the Sport Coat hit the top of my hand then, when bending my wrist?

  10. This video reminds me of another you have done, I'm not sure which one though. If you have, you give us a link to the video 🙂

  11. This is great, compared to the suits in Skyfall and Spectre. Jany Temime and Daniel Craig should watch this and get rid of the ugly sausage wrapped look for the suits for the next Bond film.

  12. The dubbing is annoying AF! I'm going to start using the dislike button much more liberally to make sure these videos don't appear in my feed. Unsubscribed.

  13. ty for the 5'9" and under part!! i am 5'9" and next time i buy a suit, i will keep the length of the jacket in mind 🙂

  14. my blazer fits perfect except that the sleeves go a little bit over the hands. Am i breaking a big rule now? 🙂 ive been to a tailor but didnt found it worth my money shortening the sleeves

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