100 Replies to “Epic Lesson – Heel and toe”

  1. "Speed Secrets" by Ross Bentley – "Step-by-step explanation of how to heel and toe:
    1. Begin braking using the ball of your right foot on the brake pedal while keeping a small portion of the right side of your foot covering the gas pedal – but not pushing it yet.
    2. Depress the clutch pedal with your left foot, while maintaining braking.
    3. Move the shift lever into the next-lower gear (eg. from fourth to third), while maintaining braking.
    4. While continuing braking and with the clutch pedal depressed, pivot or roll your right foot at the ankle, quickly pushing or "blipping" the throttle (revving the engine).
    5. Quickly ease out the clutch, while maintaining braking.
    6. Continue braking in lower gear."

  2. now i know how to do it. thank you very much. so all you have to do first is brake, and then clutch (while at the same time downshift and blip throttle). i thought at first it's clutch while downshifting and brake+blip throttle.

  3. Oh… so it's called engine break… I figured through playing forza that the car will slow down faster if you shift downward as rpms decrease. But, I never knew why. I just knew worked… Learn something new everyday.

  4. hmm.. i know that you kept the simplicity of engine braking in this video. the science of engine braking is a little too complex to explain to non-mechanical engineering minds. but the takeaway messages are: 1) when down-shifting at high speed, you want the engine to be running/spinning at the same speed as the wheels [via the transmission, and hence REV MATCHING] to avoid sudden change of rotational speed of the wheels [which causes the loss of traction]. 2) when no fuel is injected into the engine, the rate of which the engine runs/spins is slowed down by the friction between the piston and the engine block [which is the core of engine-braking]. i dont know how to explain it any simpler than that lol

  5. I'd like to point out it's not the engine braking that causes you to spin out but the sudden change in speeds(between engine and wheels). If it was the engine brake like you mention, the car would still spin out after a heel and toe downshift.
    It's the inertia of the engine that causes a "shock" to be sent through to the wheels when you lift the clutch aggressively, all that heel and toe does is rev match so that there is no change in speed and therefore no inertia forces are transmitted.
    It's a bit like trying to get into 1st gear while driving, if you lift the clutch quickly, the wheels will slow down and lose traction, if release the clutch slowly there will be no loss of traction, and it will take a 'long' time for the engine to bring up the revs. All that happens is the energy of the car is used to accelerate the engine, however it feels like heavy braking because the engine has a lot of inertia and there is a gear disadvantage.
    In physics terms, Impulse (shock) = Force/time
    If the force is the difference between engine and gearbox(wheel) speeds (and their respective inertia), it is clear to see that in order to provide a rapid gear change without upsetting the balance, the speeds have to match

    Nonetheless, a good video explaining the technique. I just like to be picky

  6. Actually, everything that has 3 pedals should use heel and toe, and that audi at 4:03 is semi-automatic, it doesn't have a clutch pedal. secuential manual is like every other manual gearbox, the difference is that you can't select random gears, it selects it in order (1-2-3-4-5-4-3-4-5-6-5-4-3-2-1 is an example), but you can shift a lot faster, like almost half seconds faster, more power and torque transmitted (straight cut gears). Keep going bud!

  7. Ooooooh d'accord ! Merci d'avoir expliqué, je n'avais jamais vraiment compris l'effet et l'utilisation de cette technique … MERCI !

  8. so… in short words, while you are downshifting you push the clutch and the throttle at the same time?

  9. I thought this was gonna be a on real cars lol. I recently started practicing I'm my car but I suck at racing games because I use a controller

  10. Same goes for motorcycles without slipper clutch, except I'd never add power until the downshift is performed to avoid strain on the gearbox.. 1. Brake 2. Clutch 3. Downshift 4. Blip the throttle 5. Repeat step 2, 3 and 4 ,for the desired entry gear before corner 6. Slowly release the clutch lever to the point you are almost locking the rear wheel, for maximum engine break effect to make the rear of the bike "sit" down before the corner. 7. Release both clutch and brake lever in a smooth way to avoid the bike to become unsettled before you wack it into the turn. The more confidense you have at the point of entry, the more likely you will keep it through and out of the turn as well.

  11. Actually, braking for a corner can be done way easier. (Wheel users only+pedal and clutch/manual)
    First you ofcourse brake, then when you brake: Give around 10% throttle, release and downshift, continue giving throttle a bit and it shouldn't lock 😀
    I recommend it on cars with higher horsepower like the Zonda R, but i guess it will also work on an Abarth 🙂

  12. Tap handbrake and use sparingly if you can't heel toe or put automatic on and drive like a rally driver (right foot brake)

  13. Viper your videos helped me so much. Thank you! Btw i have a little vid with Senna i think you´ll enjoy 😉 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzLjZWrpzmQ

  14. Viperconcept, I have a question. I saw some footwork of a rally driver and noticed he does something different than heel&toe. If he wants to go from 4th to 2nd gear for example, he pushes in the clutch, switches to third, and really quickly releases the clutch not all the way up, then pushes it back in, then changes to 2nd and slowly releases the clutch. Do you think that prevents wheel lockup since the stress on rear wheels isnt so huge?

  15. Thank you!This and the beginner amauter and pro part 1 video (I will watch part 2) made me subscribe.You have very good and informative content!

  16. I always put to much pressure on my break during the rotation and increase my chances of locking the breaks during heel toe, I think I need a pedal with a larger break travel.

  17. Great video. I just like to point out that heel toe isn’t really like ABS in a technical sense since what heel toe is trying to achieve is to slow down the car and downshifting while releasing the clutch in the correct RPM to avoid engine braking. The former applies and releases the brakes rapidly to prevent the car from skidding. Both however prevent the car from locking the wheels so they both are the same in that aspect.

  18. After watching so many video's on how to do this i finally found one that is simple and easy to understand. Everyone els just overcomplicates things

  19. Downshift without heel and toe provokes not only engine brake, but most importantly clutch brake. In this case the clutch will be the most important cause suddenly decreasing the driving wheels speed. Since while doing heel and toe you downshift, you are actually provoking a stronger engine break.

  20. So, note 1: In FWD cars, the engine's brake will help me branking the car for the corner;
    note 2: In RWD cars I can use the heel and toe technique or I can downshift without releasing the cluch.

    Is that correct, @viperconcept?

  21. Well I wanted to learn the heel toe technique some time ago and this video appeared. And guess what I wanted to heel-toe (and do some other racing tehniques) in the C9 Sauber, guess what there's one in this video. Now I need to wait for a g920 to appear with a shifter.

    Nice vid BTW

  22. While this is mostly true on many sequential car , some of the model of the 911 gt3 doesn"t have the autoblip (like the one represented in the flat6 mods for rf2) it's still sequential but you still have to heel&toe Excellent video and channel by the way 😉

  23. this is the "fake" heel and toe the "real" is brake clutch shift to neutral accelerator clutch and downshift the real heel and toe is neccesary on cars with nothing syncro the "fake" is good for cars after ~1970 1980

  24. Hey Viper. I was watching your video on heel and toe, though I could never understand how to be smooth in pedal controls. In general, I mean having steady brake pressure and blipping the throttle just enough to bring the revs up perfectly. I've tried a few different techniques, foot positions, and practiced them. However, it seems that I blip the throttle too much or too little, or my brake pressure is unstable when blipping the throttle, making the car quite unsettling when entering a corner.

    Am I doing something wrong? Or do I just need way more practice than I think?

    I'd like your tips and advice on being smoother with downshifting.

    I have a G29 with the H-Shifter and play on Assetto Corsa and GT Sport.

    Thanks Viper.

  25. It took me a long to time to understand and execute the movement. Nowadays I can do it, but I still struggle to maintain the same braking level while kicking the gas. Everytime I go for the gas I press the brake a little more and, depending on the speed, lock the wheels.

  26. any settings to do in the game ? The game does not allow me to press the brake and the throttle in the same time? (assetto corsa….)

  27. Is this technique mainly benefitial for rear wheel driven cars due to weight distribution or does it benefit other types as well?

  28. thanks for the tutorial. One question tho. at the moment where u bleep the throttle and downshifting, which one goes first? do you downshift first then bleep the throttle, vice versa, or do both at the same time? Professional race car drivers do it so fast that it kinda looks like they're doing it at the same time but I just wanna make sure. thanks in advance

  29. 3:57 About that question, in Live For Speed when you downshift with a sequential transmission, the car doesn’t auto heel-toe. So in that game even with a sequential car you have to do the heel-toe technique, for me is a good point of the game :3

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