Assembling an Olympic Recurve Bow

Assembling an Olympic Recurve Bow

Hi people, this is NUSensei. For the past couple of weeks I’ve been asked to cover few different topics. I’ve been asked about what my current recurve setup is. I’ve been asked about what things you need to buy for your full target recurve setup. And I’ve been asked to demonstrate how to assemble a bow from scratch. You know, I want to cover all of that today in one shot. Now, I can’t actually demonstrate how to assemble a bow from ‘scratch’, as in getting all the stuff from the shop and then putting it together. I can point out what you need to do, though. So I don’t wanna mess with my setup. So I’m going to go through each part of my recurve setup in the first section of the video. In the second section I’ll put it together. Okay, the first I’ll go through is my riser. The riser is Win&Win Inno CXT and this is the glossy black colour. The riser basically comes as-is out of the box. I do have several things attached to it already which I don’t want to remove. But when you buy it straight from store you need to put all of that yourself. The first thing is the rest, I’m using Hoyt Super Rest. This is the really cheap $2 one. I find them useful because they’re great for beginners, it does the job. It feels flimsy but they’ll easily shoot through thousands of arrows. And if they do break, it’s 2 bucks to replace. Not a problem. I know some people use the expensive one, but even if you do, I like to have these as a backup. Just in case they break. To put this on, what you have to do is to remove the backing tape to the rest and stick it on like that. There are two holes on the riser, they’re meant for your plunger. Which one you want to use is kind of preference, I think most will use the one closer to the belly of the riser. And you stick it on there. I’ve also put on my clicker, I’ve got Win&Win Carbon clicker. There are two type of clickers usually: there’s one which sticks on to the riser and it’s the one with screws on. They function the same. The stick on actually stays on, so it’s not a matter of whether or not they stay. A screw on there, you can adjust to suit your particular draw length and stays there. On this side I’ve already screwed on the sight mount. Again, when you buy your riser it doesn’t come with this, it comes with your sight which you can see over there I use Shibuya Ultima Recurve Sight. You need to mount the block on your riser first, so you use hex wrenches to screw it on. Once screwed on, you generally leave it there. There’s no need to take it off each time you … together What you do is you grab the sight and you slide it in. So you leave it here when you disassemble your bow. For the plunger, I use the Beiter plunger. This is like the most expensive one you can buy. It’s very good, easily adjustable. Has very good options for spring tensions. This is pretty much the choice for most competitive shooters. You don’t have to buy one, but I sort of have and it’s a very good plunger. For the limbs I’ve got Win&Win Inno EX Power. There are two types of EX limbs: there’s the EX Powers and the EX Primes. They’re very similar construction and design, the main differences is the Primes are wood core whereas the Powers have foam core. Differences is based on feel, some people prefer the smoothness of wood core, whereas the powers have the punch to it. So it’s a preference thing. These are 40# limbs although I do have a shorter draw length, so they’re not quite 40# on my fingers. But that’s what I use. The sight I’ve mentioned before, this is the Shibuya Ultima recurve sight. It comes in a sight bar, a sight block, and the sight mount which we saw before. And I leave them screwed on. Sight is disassembled very easily. It just comes on like this. And most sight have the same setup. Might not as easy to put on, but it’s usually separate block, separate bar, separate mount. My bow string isn’t anything special. It’s a typical 68″ AMO Fast Flight string. Black. I use a serving thread as a nocking point rather than brass, because it can be a bit heavy, this one are very light. So I use that for my bow string. For the stabilizers I use a set of Doinker Platinum Hi Mods. This are very expensive. You don’t have to buy expensive stabilizers, I just chose them because I like it. This is very good though, you can have weight options, they’re very sturdy. You can start off got the long rod and two pack of side rod. For my extender, I’ve got this suppression mount also by Doinker. Now I admit I got this because it looked pretty cool. You can kinda … your Doinker set. My v-bar is a adjustable Doinker v-bar. Most v-bar uses a straight set angle, but you can adjust this including up and down, left and right. Finally I’ve got a generic Cartel bow stand, and a Hoyt bow stringer. More at it, I do use Easton ACEs. These are very good carbon aluminium arrows. Not the same tier as the X10s. But very similar design, but somewhat lower priced. I also use bright pink colour XS Wings at the moment. Okay that’s it, let’s assemble the bow. I like using my bow stand in the process, because it’s part of my ritual. Plus it holds my bow so I don’t have to chuck them in the ground every time I pick something up. I know a lot of people who buy their first bow don’t buy a bow stand, but you don’t want to leave them on the ground. So I recommend buying one of these as part of your pack. Alright so I gonna grab my riser, my limbs. So what I’ve got, one on top limbs. It doesn’t really matter too much, but I like doing it out of habit. That’s my upper limb, and it clicks in like that. You can see there are pocket here and there’s knob here, so slide it in and it should click in like that. Alright next we’ve got the bowstring. Now the bowstring has loop on the end, it’s usually a bigger loop and a smaller loop. Usually, not always, but usually the big one goes on top. So you grab the big loop and you slip it in over the tip of the limbs and you slide down part way down the limbs. You then grab the second loop and then you slip it on the edge. If you do twist your string, this will be twisted a few times and slip it in the end like that. And you grab the bow stringer. Bow stringers do come in couple different designs, but very similar function. It’s usually a soft pad and a tip protector, although you might have like two tip protector or two soft pad. The function very, very similarly. So you slide the soft pad over the limbs, it clips on like that. Make sure you goes over the string not under it, so the bow stringer cord goes over the string. And then on the other end, grab that, make sure that it’s in the right way, then slips this part on. Okay it might vary with your particular bow stringer. Again make sure that the string aren’t tangled. And then you step on the bow stringer, not the bow string, the bow stringer. And you pull up, and slip the top loop over the edge of the limbs. Like that. Do check to see that the string is on the groove properly, if it’s misaligned it can come off when you shoot, which is pretty nasty. Not dangerous but makes a bit of surprise. So makes sure it’s on properly Something I say you should do is to check your brace height. The string can become untwisted when you put it away, so the next time when you put it on you may have different brace height than what you originally had. So I’m gonna put my bow square here and I measure, I measure the same as I normally do. If you’re starting out, this isn’t critical. But if you’re doing competition style shooting, you really want to have the same setup each time. And while at it, I’m gonna put on my plunger. The plunger is very easy, it screws on to the side of the riser. Make sure it’s the right one with the rest on it, otherwise you can’t get through. This requires tightening, otherwise they will rattle and it’s really annoying. The Beiter ones do come with a cute, neon coloured hex wrench. So I’m gonna tighten it, slip it on, and give it a squeeze. So there we go. Alright I’m gonna put my bow on the bow stand. It’s why I made it in the first place. Very convenient, I don’t have to hold my bow anymore. I grab my extender, and I screw it on first. I know sometimes these things don’t screw up properly, you need to tighten using hex wrenches to get the right alignment, or you might use a washer. As one of the really annoying things about archery is sometimes this kinda goes off the other way. So you have to make sure that it’s the same angle everytime. I’m gonna grab my side rods and screw them on. Now, Doinker does make quick release adapters. It takes a second to release. Honestly, I don’t see the big deal because it’s not that long anyway. Screw it on here. Yeah, nice and tight. And then finally the long rod. There we go, nice and tight. Finally we’ve got our sight. I re put this sight block on and it’s gonna be this side, and I’m gonna screw it in here. I usually put it in number 2, you put it on up to you. Okay that’s nice and tight. And there we go. That’s the target Olympic-style recurve. Fully assembled. Hope this answer some of the questions. That if you already have a bow you probably didn’t even know this. When there’s somebody out there who are buying one and kinda get freaked out by the complexity. Not very complex, that’s how you assemble the recurve from start to finish. This is NUSensei, thanks for watching, and I see you next time. By the way if you want to know how to disassemble a bow, watch this video backwards.

46 Replies to “Assembling an Olympic Recurve Bow”

  1. Sorry for the newb question but why do you need an extender for the stabilizer set up?  Can you not just screw it directly into the riser?  Does it move the overall weight forward or something.

  2. Cringed a bit when you I saw you place all your equipment on the concrete D: I'm still waiting for my Plat Hi-mod side rods to come in… 3 months and counting.

  3. You should probably also mention how to set the limbs after you string the bow. It might be helpful to people who are new to archery. When I first started out I didn't know about it either until my friend explained it to me. Great vids man 😀

  4. how many inches for ur long rod? and how many arrows do you recommend to have in a quiver at all times for competition?

  5. Can you do a video fo how to adjust a riser and its limbs if there are no pocket adjustment, every adjustment is done in the cam, naimly the SF premium riser is the one I have……. and I just can not find a video about adjusting that kind of riser…..

  6. So you remove the plunger button every time? I leave it on atm, doesn't seem as a big deal in my Legend Archery Streamline Backpack with softpocket for the riser. What do you think?

  7. I noticed that you have a nice bag to keep everything in, but could never figure out what it was. It was always obscured or out of frame. It looks like it's fairly inconspicuous, instead of being a billboard that says 'you can sell whatever is in here for a lot of money' like I see with most other packs for recurves.

    Basically, what is that bag, and can everything fit in there, including the long stabilizer and quiver?

  8. I picked up almost the same rigg as you. Same limbs, and riser. Same carbon clicker bur a different stabilizer. I got the Bee stinger. I' be yet to see anyone assemble their s the way I have. I've attached the main stab to the front bottom, and the split V for the side rods along with the wrist strap in the thread well above it. Am I screwing that up? The weights now…what determines weather you use three ,four five two. One on left two on right…. Nobody seems to have an answer for that. I usually hear the code words for I haven't got a clue ( it a personal preference) …

  9. I have a sure lol contender sight. I can hardly see thru the sight. Other archers have said bust that red dot out of there, It's more of a hindrance. I also noted three sides have black plastic and the third side is open. Which side goes up? Are you trying to shade the pin with the blackl plastic sides to the pin or keep it open to collect light? I mean which way does it go? It's not with the instructions.

  10. the audio lol
    Interesting view, but the muffled audio was always on my mind
    your setup is too much $$$$ :'(

  11. Hello NuSensei ! I just want to thank you for ALL your great videos and the thought and time and effort you have put in to doing them. I am an older (60+ yrs) beginner archer here in the Northeast USA just starting to put together my first Olympic style Recurve set-up for club/regional competition after getting my orientation and "sealegs" using a basic Samick setup. Your technique and equipment videos AND your videos about your own struggles and triumphs in training and competition are INVALUABLE for me and it seems for MANY others. Keep up the great work and any technique and training advice will be absorbed by all of us like sponges !! Wishing you BEST SUCCESS and HAPPINESS in your future in ALL your pursuits !!!!

  12. I have a SF Axiom L+, and I have a question. The Weight / Tiller Bolt, that you screw in on the limbs. Is this supposed to be very tight? I can't get the upper bolt as tight as I think it should be, and I can pull the limb out even with it screwed down as tight as it can be. Is this an issue? Or when I string the bow will the force of the string pulling on the limbs keep them from falling / being pulled out of the riser?

  13. +NUSensei as you say, to dis-assemble watch video backwards! Seriously tho, is it normal practice to take out the plunger to pack away riser at the end of a session ?

  14. So to speak, are ILFs plug and play? I'm just starting and I reckon these things need adjustments or idk. Please enlighten 🙂

  15. Excellent video as always. Getting my new recurve bow in a few days so all this information is extremely helpful.

  16. I liked the end comment "if you want to know how to disassemble a bow, watch this video backwards" Haha! Gold!

  17. . In need of some advice. Im working on building up a target recurve. 25" riser with wns long limbs. Going for 42lbs for a 68" amo once adjusted. What would be a good shaft spine recommendation for my setup?

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